Layering is front and center for next winter, with plays on texture and volume in a masterful game of accumulation. Balenciaga gave the illusion of nine layered items worn at once, playing with trompe-l’œil extremes to take on the arctic cold. At Chanel, layering was more discrete, with an updated hoodie worn over a padded jacket, over a dress. Prada went for a night-bright, multi-layered vision that was seen by Miuccia Prada as so many layers of protection for women.
Fashion looked to America this season, to discover the New World through Western accents at Isabel Marant, an effortlessly chic Margot Hemingway-esque look at Lorenzo Serafini and a Wild West edge for Alberta Ferretti’s signature femininity.
BOUQUETS OF FLOWERS
Florals of all kinds were given an update for the new season, in all-over prints on maxi and mini lengths that stayed just the right side of chic. A look that could easily take over next winter.
Comfortwear was a red thread through the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 shows, producing quilted volume in new proportions at Alexander McQueen, a little more classic at Chanel and hybrid forms in hi-tech fabrics at Sacai. Everyday armor for modern life.
In variations on a theme that is as prevelent as ever, fashion continues its love affair with the 1980s by supersizing shoulders. Ever more extreme versions are unadulteredly exaggerated, leading the fight for fashion from the front.
Parkas were plentiful on the runways this season, offering protection from the winter’s cold with varying levels of eccentricity, from oversized mountains of material to light and airy versions, cut in contemporary shapes and sizes.
With good causes, charity projects and a simple desire to protect the planet, fashion is going green. The latest fight? A charge towards fake fur, led by Stella McCartney and joined by Gucci, Givenchy, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.
A recurring theme at Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, fringing gave evening looks a poetic twist. A detail that made all the difference and added an air of glamor.
If fashion were a painting of society, this season’s subject would be blue collars eveywhere with a style that would not be out of place on a construction site. Think full-on hi-vis orange with reflective safety strips and plastic work boots.
For anyone who wants to feel comfortable in their clothes come what may, the cape makes its come-back at just the right time. Easy chic par excellence, it’s an essential for any wardrobe that makes comfort and sex appeal its top priorities.
The Swinging Sixties were hanging in the air as models carried themselves with a new-found liberty and the designs played around the decade’s revolutionary, free spirit. Whether at Dior, Miu Miu or A.P.C., mini-dresses, skirts and capes were all on the catwalk, worn with ineffable style.
Day-glo inspiration collided this season, bringing youth, techno, the 1990s and women’s rights together in a colorful festival of neon, featuring quirky architectural designs and technical materials. Fashion went pop with look-at-me pieces.
Rani Norton & Lara Norton