Amanda Brinkman was attending the third debate between Donald Trump and Hillary Clinton when, in the midst of a speech by the Democratic candidate, the president of the United States of America whispered, “Such a nasty woman.”
Like millions of Americans who were glued to the screen, their reaction was astonished. “I was shocked by her audacity, but I had been drawing all night, so I quickly wrote those words over a heart and made a T-shirt.
I put it in my instagram and my online store even before the debate is over. I wanted to do something subversive, but at the same time captivating, that people could relate to. Complaining the phrase in a hyperfeminine manner seemed to me the perfect way to use Trump’s words against himself and his defenders. ”
The next morning, Brinkman, who is a curator of contemporary art, awoke to a parallel reality. “I had already sold more than 10,000 T-shirts. I did a Google search and noticed that the subject had already been written by dozens of media.” The rest, as they say, is history. Her T-shirt has become an icon that has surpassed the election campaign because, in times of crisis, taking over as a nasty woman is, first and foremost, taking a stand. “For me, the word nasty is synonymous with being an intelligent, talented, interested woman,” she explains in an email.
To this (r)evolution, it is called Fashion Activism and it is, especially after the last New York Fashion Week (NYFW), a subject of the moment. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) gave the motto, encouraging participants to wear pink pins stating “Fashion Stands With Planned Parenthood.”
In the presentation of Christian Siriano, a model was wearing a T-shirt that read “People are people”.
Jonathan Simkhai offered shirts that read “Feminist AF”
Designer Mara Hoffman invited the women’s co-founders of Washington to open their parade and Raf Simons, a master of subtlety, chose David Bowie’s This is America to finish off her first collection at Calvin Klein. “If you have A voice, use it, “he told the WWD. But the most subversive act came from the well-known magazine W, which brought together 81 industry personalities in a video where the only repeated phrase was “I Am An Immigrant.”
“I think Fashion has always reflected its time, and this is certainly a time of polarization, in which many feelings are in the blossom of the skin, so it is normal that, now, Fashion is a reflection of this”- Kristina Haugland, a historian and curator of fashion at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
From the campaigns of Benetton, which was Oliviero Toscani produced from the most striking images of the twentieth century of the famous slogan PETA, “I prefer to go naked wearing fur.”
Most recently, Karl Lagerfeld set up a “protest march” for Chanel’s spring / summer 2015, with dozens of megaphone models up and down shouting slogans like “Ladies First”, and this season’s Diesel veteran in campaigns With content back to activism with “Make Love Not Walls,” a collaboration between photographer David LaChapelle and Nicola Formichetti, creative director of the brand.
The Other, who talked about both the clothes and the scenery he created around him: models with posters that said “Free the Nipple” or “My Body my Choise”. Beyond the shock, the designer has a goal: “To create collections that reflect current themes, appealing and with a feminist and political character. Always maintaining a very youthful, humorous, fun and, in a way, sarcastic and intriguing mood. “Fashion can and should be used to reflect and explore various themes in order to break down barriers and revolutionize mentalities.